Long Days, Restless Nights

Our trip to Italy proceeds as planned. The Canon PowerShot G11 stills poses a challenge. More details later. The last two days in Rome were tranquil, but long. On Tuesday, we hurried across Rome by metro for our appointed time to enter the Vatican Museums. There were long lines of people waiting to get in and security was quick to check our tickets. Once past screening and inside the entrance hall, there was an even greater press of people, many in large groups. However, we had our own group to join for a guided tour (recommended). Our guide was excellent. Using radio frequency devices, as we moved from room to room her commentary was detailed and interesting. She proved to be quite knowledgeable about key artistic and historical features. At one location, she amusingly exhaled a “mamma mia!” at the congestion in the room as she looked for a spot to stand to give her talk.

After the tour, we entered the Sistine Chapel where we remained looking up at the original images that one sees so frequently reproduced in various media: in books, on posters, in ads, etc. Silence was demanded; no photos allowed. You’re able to enter St. Peter’s directly when you exit the Chapel (to avoid re-screening). The open space and high ceiling were very welcome after dodging the earlier crowds. We happened to be there at a time of day when bright streams of light from the upper windows provided unique illumination and patterns.

It was warm and very sunny when we emerged into the square from the dim interior of St. Peter. Walking past Castel Sant’Angelo, we crossed a bridge to reach a nearby neighborhood looking for a restaurant for a late lunch.

We eventually decided upon a place, but I found the displays outside of restaurants along the way to be creative advertisements; the owners going a step further than just displaying the menu.

Wednesday morning we walked from our hotel to the nearby Quirinale to see the Caravaggio exhibit. The experience has heightened my appreciation of the “master,” as he was referred to on the audio guide. The exhibit was limited to prominent works proven to be painted by Caravaggio himself, including “The Musicians,” a familiar painting from the Met museum (NY). His work provides good lessons for photographers in the use of lighting effects to enhance realism in an image.

After this excursion, more walking; we saw the Trevi Fountain, then a late lunch. Later, we happened upon a martial band playing in the Piazza Navona. We returned to the hotel to rest. Dinner was at a nearby Pizzeria, one of the oldest in Rome: Est! Est! Est! The restaurant is atmospheric and welcoming.

Sometimes too much of good things during the day lead to restless nights. I become sleepy soon after downloading, reviewing and backing up my images from the day. No time left to write. That explains why you need to schedule a day of rest in your itinerary. We’ll have to see about that so I can catch up with reporting our itinerary and the challenge with the Canon G11.

Tomorrow, we travel by train to Naples. It should offer a contrast to Rome.

Canon PowerShot G11: Evolution or Devolution

To keep the commentary on track, I’ve decided NOT to bring my digital SLR on the trip to Italy. I’m traveling only with a recently purchased Canon PowerShot G11. Since I’ve been using a DSLR for nearly five years, this is quite a momentous decision for me. I’m very comfortable with my DSLR. I would consider it a tool; as an extension of my hand. Can the Canon G11 measure up? The quick answer would be yes. But why not give it a real road test. My principal concern is whether my SLR skill set is transferable to a point-and-shoot. Five years ago, I upgraded from a Canon PowerShot point-and-shoot to my current DLSR. Will it be an evolution or devolution of technology? The Canon G11 is not a replacement for my DSLR, but a camera to keep handy for the inevitable shouldn‘t miss shot. I will postpone any judgment during the early days of my trip. Yet, these past three days have posed a challenge.

The first afternoon in Rome was another adrenal-filled day (second only to our departure from JFK). We arrived later than expected in Rome; the crowds at the airport were enormous as several planes had landed around the same time. There were mobs around all 12 luggage carousels. Which ONE was ours? While waiting, I heard a lot of spoken German, and saw families with lots of luggage desperate to get somewhere.

The usual travelers’ opinion is to stay on your feet after arriving at your destination in Europe. Often this is necessary if your hotel room is not ready for your occupancy. This time our room was ready. After napping until nearly 5:00 pm, we set out for a walk in the Monti and Forum areas. (If you recall from my last post, this was one option. The other was to proceed to the Borghese Gardens.) The sun was low in the sky and the temperature pleasant. Being a Sunday, families with children as well as tourist were enjoying the evening. We even crossed paths with a couple with whom we had driven into the city center by a bus shuttle.

For dinner, we wound our way through the narrow, curving streets off the Via del Corso, to one of Steve’s favorite restaurants, Baffetto, well-known for its thin crust pizzas. True to its reputation, there was a line when we arrived and a line which extended further by the time we left nearly two hours later.

Monday was a free day for us as we had no events scheduled. We started at the train station in order to buy our train tickets for the next destination on our trip. Afterwards, we went for espressos in the station café. While there, an announcement frantically told the multitudes in long lines that seats for points north to France and Switzerland were sold out. Apparently, this was a residual effect of the volcano eruption in Iceland. We felt lucky as we had purchased our tickets at an automated ticket kiosk within a reason length of time. We also felt lucky to be in Rome. Who could have predicted such a life changing event four months ago.

Leaving the Termini station, we took a bus to the Campo Fiori area. After walking around a daily market (vegetables, fruit, assorted tourist kitsch, and restaurant hawkers), we had lunch at Da Sergio, located down one of the narrow lanes, off the Piazza. Very enjoyable. I allowed myself to have a Spaghetti Carbonara. Ooh, so rich and full of calories; with a thick saffron colored sauce. Steve had another local specialty, Spaghetti Caci e Pepe.

When we were about to leave, there was a brief rain shower, but as we started to walk around, we heard the distant rumble of thunder. We just reached a nearby pub, before the sky darkened and furiously dropped hail stones. Over an hour later we continued our stroll (at one point, reaching Piazza Navona after sunset and enjoying a cherry-and-crème gelato), we returned to the hotel by bus.

We have two more days in Rome before going by train to Naples. Tuesday morning, we start at the Vatican Museums, then St. Peters. On Wednesday, I’m especially anxious to see the Caravaggio exhibit.