La Defénse

The esplanade of La Defénse (“le Parvis”) is an often overlooked walking option. Located on the western edge of Paris, it is easily reached by metro line no. 1 (either Esplanade de la Defénse, or Grande Arche, the last stop). As Paris’ key business district, the largest in Europe, it is more than just modern steel-and-glass office buildings, hotels, a few low-rise residential buildings and a commercial center. The area could be considered an open-air sculpture gallery.

Anyone who has an interest in modern architecture will find many splendid examples here. They are quite thrilling to see. Yet, walking along the esplanade, or the various paths in and around the various buildings, you will find many modern art sculptures, fountains and ponds. I like to think of these objects and constructions as small human touches to counterbalance the glass-and-steel.

Thumb. Sculpture by Cesar, one of France’s preeminent artists.

On my visit a few weeks ago, I had changeable skies as you can see from the photos. First it was bright and warm (the best for viewing the buildings and the art), then overcast, then partly cloudy skies, then it was drab, drab, drab by late afternoon.

There is a shopping mall (Quatre Temps) with stores to browse through, places to eat, or for catching a movie. When it was overcast, I explored the mall and had a simple lunch at a chain restaurant. Lots of light enters through the multi-level windows as well as sky lights along the corridors.

If you have time, and would like more information about the history of La Defénse, look for the Espace Info Defénse Museum, near La Grande Arche on the esplanade.

La Grande Arche stands prominently at the west end of the esplanade. At 100m/361ft, most guide books will mention that Notre Dame could fit inside the open cube. On a future visit, I hope to visit the viewing platform, accessed by glass elevators, for views of the Paris. There is also a Computer Museum and a restaurant.
The rationale for its design was as an anchor to the “Axis Historical” which runs from La Defénse down the Champs-Élysées to the Arc de Triomphe, then onward to the Louvre.

I explored the various areas off the esplanade looking for sculptures and other art. Some famous artists are represented – Joan Miro, Alexander Calder – others unknown to me. It is after lunch and there were not that many people walking about. But a few could be seen in front of some buildings on their cigarette breaks. This activity has become more noticeable, not only here, but throughout the city.

Alexander Calder’s last sculpture is not easily overlooked.
At about the center of the esplanade is a large fountain which I have been fortunate only once to see shooting streams of water skyward. Otherwise water flows over colorful dark blue, red and cream-colored tiles that sparkle in the sunlight. A few benches below the fountain can serve as a rest stop to admire the view.

This apparently white-paned structure is my favorite (Coeur Defénse); I think the white rectangles are window shades. I can’t help but think of the office workers who have to pull down the shades to block out the light. The randomness of this makes for an interesting sight.

At the end of the esplanade, you come to the Takis Pond, a lovely reflecting pool. Beyond it you can just get a glimpse of the Arc de Triomphe at the end of the Champs-Élysées.

Sadly new construction seems to be overwhelming the Pond (it once had the view to itself), but several people were still sitting by it for the occasional cool breezes.

Off to the right, if you must, you can see the tip of the Eiffel Tower far in the distance.

It’s been a long walk and you may elect to return to city at the nearby metro station (Esplanade de la Defénse), as I usually do, rather than return back up the esplanade to La Grande Arche metro station. That is, unless you want to shop at FNAC in the CNIT building, one of the first to be built (1958), for that DVD of a particular French singer you want to bring home.

So, if you run out of options during your visit to Paris, consider taking the short trip to La Defénse for an afternoon. (Note: these metro stations mentioned are in zones 1&2, if you happen to take RER A, La Defénse is zone 3.)